This is open to interpretation, but this is what worked for me on the Kobra S1.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is critical. If your bed is not level, say goodbye to a good, consistent prints. This should be relatively straight forward to get done. I'll explain my method.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
First thing is to make sure you build plate is clean and free of any adhesives or grease. Let it soak in the sink for a few minutes in some hot, soapy water, drying it thoroughly without leaving any fibres or other debris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Set this to print. It should only take 30mins depending on your speed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The next part of this equation is the Z-offset. This is the distance to the build plate from the nozzle tip. This will vary and will also change when\/if you change the nozzle.
This is also important as getting the first layer down smoothly will ensure good adhesion to the plate and good layer bonding. I ended up printing 3 of these until I was happy. I started with an offset of -0.25mm which resulted in a rough texture and \"wave\" like patterns. I settled on -0.1mm which got me near perfect, the finish was uniform with most of it smooth like paper.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
I used Elegoo PLA+ at 220C and bed temp. of 70C. I've had really good results with Elegoo PLA+, so I tend to stick with that.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are many options in your slicer that will also need adjusting to get good results like, extrusion width, print speed, layer height etc etc. In my settings, I slow down the print a little as I don't need fast speed and would rather have quality. If you use TPU, you will need to go considerably slower. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
This is open to interpretation, but this is what worked for me on the Kobra S1. Bed Levelling This is critical. If your bed is not level, say goodbye to a good, consistent prints. This should be relatively straight forward to get done. I'll explain my method. First thing is to make sure you build … Continue reading Getting The Basics Done<\/span>